Tea Grotto Blog

Tea is naught but this:
First you heat the water,
Then you make the tea.
Then you drink it properly
That is all you need to know.

Rikyu

Having recently returned from Kyoto, Japan home of the Japanese Tea Ceremony, Chanoyu, the living presence of “hot water for tea” is alive within me. The wabi/sabi aesthetic of the many tea rooms we visited, especially those handcrafted gems of antiquity whose earthy simplicity and rusticness blend the art of both man and nature, captures the zen of tea.

Matcha the green tea powder derived from Japanese tea called Gyokuro is composed of shade grown leaves minus the stems and then steamed and ground. It is a smooth, grassy, umami flavor unique in both it’s texture and taste. Whipped either to a frothy foam in Usucha, thin tea or kneaded in to a thicker tea drink called Koicha it is always the right amount (about one-third of a cup) of hot, good quality water that makes the tea superior or inferior.

Being present to watch the tea being made and all the preparation involved in making a simple bowl of tea is what makes the experience so profound. In our book Tea Here Now Chapter 5 The Japanese Tea Ceremony we say:

”...Chanoyu teaches us to move slowly treating every utensil as a prized possession, and helps the body to absorb these movements through artful, focused repetition. When the whisk for whipping the tea into a frothy foam is set down on the mat, it is placed just so, as we move from our center with our hands, arms, and even each finger in a certain manner. We breathe keeping our head straight, allowing our shoulders to be relaxed, and not forgetting that the tea is being made for a special guest.”

Around the world it is well known that tea is only second to water to quench thirst. When dining out in Kyoto and Taiwan the first thing that is served when you sit down is ocha; we call it tea. Cha is word used most often when tea is spoken of. I was amazed and pleased to discover that water was the drink we always had to ask for.

It seems so civilized and appropriate to first be served tea when you sit down. Not only does it quench our thirst but it revives us, appeases our appetite temporarily, it warms our body when cold, relaxes our muscles, and most of all it soothes. Ocha in Kyoto was either hojicha, genmaicha, and sometimes sencha. This is everyday tea in Japan and to me it was a treat. Of course the quality varies and at times it would be very weak, probably having been steeped several times(and then caffeine free) and other times it was fresh, vital, delicious. The nutty character of the roasted tea has a very nourishing aspect.

In Taiwan the same tradition exists, but the tea we drank would more often be an oolong, black tea, or sometimes green. In Taiwan the tea served appeared to match the region we were visiting and what was most common to that area. Drinking tea with food seems to let the digestive juices flow. I did ask for water at times and yet ocha was able to most often able to quench my thirst on more than the physical level. I think we call this sate satisfaction!

The term oolong means “Black dragon,” which some believe comes from the legend that a tea plantation owner was scared away from his drying leaves when he saw a black snake. Later, when he returned, the leaves had baked in the sun and the leaves where a darker color due to oxidization. Others say it is called “black dragon” because of oolong’s shape and color.

In the tea industry this tea can be called an oolong (pronounced “oo” “long”) or wulong (“wu” “long”). Both are perfectly correct due to the fact that in taiwan they pronouce it oolong and in China they pronouce it wulong. China and Taiwan are very well known for producing the worlds best oolongs.

Oolongs are teas that have been partially oxidized. Oxidation levels can vary greatly in oolongs, which creates many flavors. A lightly oxidated tea like a Jade oolong (8% to 10% oxidized) can remind someone of a green tea. However, oolongs are more complex than green teas. Jade oolongs can have floral, fruity, and lightly sweet notes. Other oolong teas that are more heavily oxidized can produce a much darker cup with roasted toasty notes. Many people consider oolong a beautiful category of tea between green and black that produces a wide range of complex and enjoyable flavors.

The processing of oolong teas is labor intensive and can vary greatly depending on the type of oolong tea that it will become. In general, the tea leaves are plucked, withered (allowed to dry), rolled and shaped, oxidized, fired, and then some are baked.